RABBIT HEALTH
WHY VACCINATE?
IT IS IMPORTANT TO FULLY UNDERSTAND WHY YOU ARE REQUIRED TO DO SOMETHING RATHER THAN BEING TOLD IT NEEDS DOING.
WHEN A RABBIT COMES INTO CONTACT WITH INFECTION FOR THE FIRST TIME THE IMMUNE SYSTEM WILL WORK HARD TO TRY AND PROTECT IT FROM THE DISEASE WHICH THE INFECTION MIGHT CAUSE. THE PROBLEM HERE IS THAT THE RABBIT CAN BECOME SERIOUSLY ILL IN ITS ATTEMPT TO WARD OFF THE INFECTION.
WHEN YOU VACCINATE A RABBIT YOU ALLOW THE IMMUNE SYSTEM TO BE TAUGHT IN ADVANCE HOW TO RECOGNISE AND FIGHT AGAINST INFECTION AND DISEASE. A LIFESAVER WHEN SOME INFECTIONS CAN CAUSE INCURABLE DISEASES.
THERE ARE TWO DIFFERENT DISEASES WHICH RABBITS NEED TO BE VACCINATED AGAINST BOTH ARE FATAL TO RABBITS AND THERE IS MUCH TO BE SAID FOR PREVENTION BEING BETTER THAN A CURE.
FIRSTLY THERE IS VHD (VIRAL HAEMORRHAGIC DISEASE)
THIS IS A VIRUS DISEASE FIRST INDENTIFIED IN CHINA IN 1984 SPREADING TO EUROPE AND ARRIVING HERE IN ENGLAND BY 1992 SPREADING RAPIDLY THROUGHOUT THE COUNTRY. THIS IS THE ONLY RABBIT DISEASE THAT REQUIRES NOTIFICATION TO THE AUTHORITIES IN THE UK AND AFFECTS ONLY RABBITS. THE RABBITS MOST LIKELY TO BE AFFECTED BY VHD ARE OLDER DOES AND BUCKS AND RARELY KITS UNDER TWO MONTHS OF AGE ALTHOUGH IT CAN BE CONTRACTED BY ANY RABBIT OVER 6 WEEKS OF AGE. VHD IS HIGHLY CONTAGIOUS, IT IS SPREAD BY AIRBOURNE DROPLETS, DIRECT/ INDIRECT CONTACT AND INFECTED FOOD. THE VIRUS THAT CAUSES THIS DISEASE IS PERSISTANT AND SURVIVES IN THE ENVIRONMENT FOR A LONG TIME.BECAUSE OF THIS IT CAN BE SPREAD ON CLOTHING AND FOOTWEAR. INSECTS AND BIRDS CAN ALSO CARRY THE VIRUS MAKING THE HOUSE RABBIT ALSO AT RISK.
THE DISEASE IS PARTICULARLY UNPLEASANT SYMPTOMS BEING ANY OF THE FOLLOWING:
DEPRESSION
COLLAPSE
CONVULSIONS
LETHARGY
LOSS OF APPETITE
BREATHING DIFFICULTIES
FEVER
SPASMS
BLOODY NASAL
PROSTRATION
EYE DISCHARGE AND GROANING
AND SUDDEN DEATH
THERE IS NO CURE FOR THIS DISEASE THE ONLY WAY TO PROTECT YOUR RABBIT FROM THIS AWFUL DISEASE IS BY VACCINATING.
A RABBIT CAN BE VACCINATED WITH A SINGLE VACCINE FROM THE AGE OF 10 WEEKS WHICH WILL FURTHER PROTECT YOUR RABBIT FOR 12 MONTHS. KITS UNDER THE AGE OF 6 WEEKS ARE RESISTANT TO THE DISEASE. VHD IS NOT A SEASONAL DISEASE IT IS YEAR ROUND IT IS THEREFORE PARAMOUNT THAT ANNUAL BOOSTERS ARE ADMINISTERED TO ENSURE ADEQUATE PROTECTION THROUGHOUT ITS LIFE. IN EXTREME CIRCUMSTANCES IT MAY BE NECESSARY FOR THE INITIAL VACCINE TO CONSIST OF TWO DOSES WITH THE FIRST ADMINISTERED EARLIER THAN 6 WEEKS. YOUR LOCAL VET WILL BE ABLE TO OFFER ADVICE ON THIS.
SECONDLY THERE IS MYXOMATOSIS, PROBABLY THE BEST KNOWN RABBIT DISEASE. MYXOMATOSIS IS A VIRAL DISEASE THAT WAS INTENTIONALLY INTRODUCED IN THE PAST TO CONTROL THE WILD RABBIT POPULATIONS. IT WAS WHEN IT WAS INTRODUCED INTO FRANCE THAT IT GOT OUT OF HAND AND SPREAD LIKE WILDFIRE ATTACKING ANY RABBITS THAT WERE NOT RESISTANT. IN 1953, MYXOMATOSIS ARRIVED IN BRITAIN. IT IS SPREAD BY THE BITE OF RABBIT FLEAS. IT IS DURING THE SPRING THAT MYXOMATOSIS IS MOST RIFE AMONGST THE WILD RABBIT POPULATION AS IRONICALLY THE RABBIT FLEA ONLY BREEDS ON PREGNANT DOES. UNLIKE VHD, MYXOMATOSIS MAKES A RABBIT UNWELL FOR A PERIOD OF TIME BEFORE THEY EVENTUALLY SUCCUMB TO DEATH. THE VIRUS IS INTRODUCED TO THE RABBIT ONCE THEY HAVE BEEN BITTEN AND MULTIPLIES IN THE SKIN OF THE FACE,EARS AND ANUS CAUSING LARGE SWELLINGS. THIS MAKES SEEING, HEARING AND DRINKING DIFFICULT FOR THE RABBIT. DEATH TAKES APPROXIMATELY 12 DAYS ALTHOUGH A SMALL PERCENTAGE MAY SURVIVE. WITH EXPERT VETERINARIAN CARE SOME MAY SURVIVE BUT MANY WILL STILL DIE, ANY THAT DO SURVIVE WILL BE LEFT WITH SCARRING. SIGNS OF AN INFECTED RABBIT CAN BE ONE OR MORE OF THE FOLLOWING:
LACK OF APPETITE AND LOSS OF WEIGHT
SWELLINGS BENEATH THE SKIN OVER THE BODY
DULL COAT
SWELLINGS OF BODY OPENINGS (EYES, EARS, ANUS)
A COLD
SWELLINGS OF THE EARS, NOSE AND EYELIDS.
THE ONLY PREVENTION OF THIS DISEASE IS BY VACCINATION AND INSECT CONTROL. IT IS IMPORTANT TO VACCINATE AS EARLY AS POSSIBLE SO AS TO AVOID PUTTING YOUR RABBIT AT RISK OF DISEASE. YOU CAN VACCINATE FROM 6 WEEKS OF AGE. PROTECTION WITH THE INITIAL VACCINE IS NOT INTENDED TO LAST THE LIFETIME OF YOUR RABBIT THEREFORE BOOSTERS WILL BE ESSENTIAL TO KEEP YOUR RABBIT SAFE. BOOSTERS ARE RECOMMENDED ANNUALLY, MORE FREQUENT BOOSTERS MAY BE NECESSARY SHOULD YOU LIVE IN A HIGH RISK AREA. AGAIN YOUR LOCAL VET WILL ADVISE YOU IF THIS IS NECESSARY.
IT IS ESSENTIAL THAT YOU DO NOT THINK IT UNNECCESARY TO SAFEGUARD YOUR RABBIT BECAUSE YOU HAVE NEVER SEEN THESE DISEASES IN RABBITS FOR YOURSELF. THE REASON THAT WILD RABBITS ARE NOT OFTEN OBSERVED WITH VHD IN PARTICULAR IS DUE TO THE ILLNESS BEING A SWIFT KILLER AND THE FIRST SIGN OF INFECTION BEING DEATH.
FLY STRIKE
RABBITS ARE ALSO PRONE TO FLYSTRIKE WHICH WHEN IT OCCURS CAN BE FATAL, FLYSTRIKE AS THE NAME SUGGESTS IS CAUSED BY FLIES, CHECK YOUR RABBITS REAR EVERYDAY PARTICULARLY IN THE LONG HAIRED BREEDS AS FLIES ARE ATTRACTED TO ANY DROPPINGS STUCK AROUND THE BOTTOM. WOUNDS AROUND THE BOTTOM CAN ALSO ATTRACT FLIES AND DIARRHOEA CAN BE A PRECURSOR FOR FLYSTRIKE. THE PREVENTION FOR FLY STRIKE IS GOOD HUSBANDRY. THEIR HUTCHES NEED TO BE KEPT CLEAN AND FREE FROM TOILET WASTE. IT MUST BE REMEMBERED THAT A RABBIT CANNOT KEEP AWAY FROM THEIR TOILET AREA AND WILL HAVE MORE THAN ONE PLACE THEY USE AS THEIR TOILET. URINE AND FAECES ATTRACT FLIES, THESE THEN LAY THERE EGGS AROUND THE ANUS AND THE POOR RABBIT IS EATEN ALIVE BY THE MAGGOTS THAT HATCH AND BURROW INTO THE SKIN. SUCH A PITIFUL END THAT IS SO FAR FROM NECESSARY AND SO EASILY PREVENTED. YOU NEED TO SPOT CLEAN THE HUTCH EACH DAY REMOVING ANY SOILED MATERIAL AND REPLACING WITH FRESH CLEAN BEDDING, ONCE A WEEK THE WHOLE HUTCH NEEDS TO BE CLEANED OUT AND ONCE A MONTH WHILE YOUR RABBIT IS ENJOYING THEIR TIME IN THE RUN THE HUTCH NEEDS TO BE COMPLETELY EMPTIED AND THOROUGHLY CLEANED WITH A SUITABLE CLEANER DESIGNED FOR THE PURPOSE MAKING SURE THAT IT IS THOROUGHLY RINSED AND IS COMPLETELY DRY BEFORE REPLACING BEDDING AND RABBIT. YOU CAN ALSO PURCHASE A SUITABLE PREVENTATIVE FROM YOUR VETS WHICH IS APPLIED AS INSTRUCTED AROUND THE REAR OF THE RABBIT AND REPELS ANY FLIES BUT TO BE COMPLETELY HONEST THIS WILL BE INEFFECTIVE WITHOUT THE PRACTICE OF GOOD HYGIENE. ASK YOUR VET ABOUT REARGUARD OR ANY EQUIVALENT THAT THEY MAY ADVISE USE OF. THE RABBITS MOST AT RISK ARE THOSE THAT ARE OBESE, SUFFER FROM DENTAL DISEASE, DIARRHOEA, AND ARTHRITIS, THOSE WITH SKIN WOUNDS AND THOSE LIVING IN DIRTY HUTCHES.
ENCEPHALITOZOON CUNICULI (E-CUNICULI)
ENCEPHALITOZOON CUNICULI IS A MICROSCOPIC PARASITE THAT AFFECTS MANY OF THE INTERNAL ORGANS LIKE THE BRAIN AND KIDNEYS. AS THESE PARASITES ARE INTERNAL THE SYMPTOMS ARE THOSE ASSOCIATED WITH THE PARTICULAR ORGAN THAT IS BEING ATTACKED.
I.E THE KIDNEY UNDER ATTACK WOULD MANIFEST AS AN INCREASING THIRST AND WEIGHT LOSS AND THE BRAIN UNDER ATTACK WOULD MANIFEST AS CONVULSIONS, TREMORS. WEAKNESS OF THE HIND LIMBS, A LOSS OF BALANCE, OR EVEN A COMA. IT COULD ALSO BE THE NERVOUS SYSTEM UNDER ATTACK AND COULD MANIFEST AS URINARY INCONTINENCE. A SUFFERING RABBIT CAN HAVE ANY OF THE FOLLOWING EFFECTS: LOSS OF VISION, LOSS OF BALANCE, HIND LIMB WEAKNESS, SEIZURES AND KIDNEY DISEASE. A TREATMENT FOR ENCEPHALITOZOON CUNICULI IS AVAILABLE FROM YOUR VET THIS IS USUALLY A 28 DAY COURSE OF PANACUR, AGAIN GOOD HUSBANDRY IS ESSENTIAL TO BRING THE INFECTION UNDER CONTROL. E CUNICULI IS MOST COMMONLY FOUND AS 'HEAD TILT' ALTHOUGH THIS DOES NOT IN ANY MEAN THAT IT IS NOT SEEN IN ANY OF THE FORMS MENTIONED ABOVE.
WHAT ELSE IS REQUIRED TO ENSURE YOUR RABBIT IS KEPT IN OPTIMAL HEALTH?
SIMPLE HEALTH CHECKS CARRIED OUT BY YOURSELF EACH WEEK IS BENEFICIAL FOR BOTH YOURSELF AND YOUR RABBIT. FOR YOUR RABBIT IT WILL HELP TO MAINTAIN GOOD HEALTH AND GIVE A CLEAR EARLY INDICATION OF ANY HEALTH PROBLEMS THAT NEED ADDRESSING SO THAT THIS CAN BE CARRIED OUT EARLY. FOR YOURSELF THE REGULAR HANDLING WILL PROVIDE THE PERFECT OPPORTUNITY FOR BONDING BETWEEN YOU AND YOUR RABBIT. THE MORE FAMILIAR YOU ARE WITH YOUR RABBIT AND THE MORE WILLING YOUR RABBIT IS TO COMPLY WITH THIS ROUTINE CHECKING THE EARLIER DETECTION OF PROBLEMS WILL OCCUR.. WHEN CARRYING OUT YOUR ROUTINE HEALTH CHECKS ONLY PROCEED ONCE YOUR RABBIT IS COMFORTABLE, RELAXED AND WILLING TO TOLERATE THE CHECKS. THIS SHOULD BE AN EXPERIENCE THAT IS ENJOYABLE FOR YOUR RABBIT AS IT IS AN ESSENTIAL PART OF THEIR UPKEEP AND MUST BE DONE REGULARLY.
SO WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING FOR IN YOUR ROUTINE HEALTH CHECKS?
WE ARE CHECKING THE EARS, EYES, TEETH, BOTTOM, FEET AND FUR. ALL OF THESE AREAS CAN GIVE INDICATION OF HEALTH PROBLEMS WHICH NEED ADDRESSING.
EARS
HERE WE ARE LOOKING FOR ANY SCABS, SCALING OR INFLAMMATION WHICH CAN INDICATE THE PRESENCE OF EAR MITES, WHICH IN TURN CAN LEAD TO EAR MANGE. AS RABBITS HAVE SUCH LARGE EARS IT IS A GOOD ASSUMPTION THAT THE MOST COMMON AILMENTS ARE GOING TO AFFECT THEM. EAR MANGE RARELY PROVES SERIOUS, IT IS SOMETHING THAT CAN BE EASILY TREATED AND IS EVEN EASIER TO PREVENT. THE MITES DON'T SUCK THE RABBITS BLOOD THEY PIERCE AND CHEW THE SOFT OUTER EAR LINING THUS CAUSING THE INFLAMMATION AND SCABBING OR SCALING WHICH WE ARE LOOKING FOR IN OUR CHECKS.THERE MAY ALSO BE THE PRESENCE OF DISCOLOURATION SOMETIMES WHITE, SOMETIMES BROWN. THIS IS MADE UP OF DEAD MITES, THEIR DROPPINGS AND DEAD SKIN CELL HELD TOGETHER WITH THE SERUM THAT OOZES FROM THE DAMAGED EAR. VET TREATMENT WILL CONSIST OF THE VET GENTLY CLEANING THE AFFECTED EAR AND TREATING WITH ANTI PARASITIC DROPS OR CREAMS. AS A PREVENTION YOU SHOULD KEEP YOUR RABBIT'S EAR'S IN TIPTOP CONDITION BY CLEANING THE INSIDE SURFACES ONCE A MONTH WITH COTTON WOOL BALLS MOISTENED WITH WARM OLIVE OIL. TO RECAP YOU ARE CHECKING THAT THE EARS ARE FREE FROM MITES AND FLEAS AS THESE CARRY DISEASES.
EYES
HERE WE WANT TO SEE EYES THAT ARE CLEAR, SHINY, FREE FROM DISCHARGE AND THAT THEY ARE NOT SWOLLEN. DULL, DAMP OR SWOLLEN EYES CAN INDICATE ILLNESS WHICH CAN LEAD TO BLINDNESS. COMMON EYE COMPLAINTS ARE WHEN THE EYES ARE RUNNY, WITH PERHAPS A YELLOWY CREAMY OR WHITE DISCHARGE AND PERHAPS BLOODSHOT EYES. THE CAUSE COULD BE DUE TO INJURY, FLY-BORNE INFECTION OR COULD INDICATE THE PRESENCE OF SNUFFLES. AS A FIRST COURSE OF ACTION YOU CAN ATTEMPT TO TREAT YOURSELF, BY WASHING THE EYE(S) WITH EITHER WARM SALINE OR HUMAN EYE WASH AND WIPING AWAY ANY CRUSTING THAT MAY BE PRESENT. IF THE PROBLEM IS STILL PERSISTING AFTER 48 HOURS SEEK THE ADVICE OF A VET AS SULPHA EYE PREPERATION OR ANTIBIOTICS MAY BE REQUIRED.
TEETH
WHEN A RABBIT IS BORN THE BREEDER SHOULD CHECK THE ALIGNMENT OF THE TEETH AROUND THE TIME OF SEXING. WHAT YOU WANT TO SEE IS THAT THE TOP TEETH ARE IN FRONT OF THE BOTTOM TEETH. ANY RABBIT THAT DOES NOT HAVE THE CORRECT ALIGNMENT WILL BE UNABLE TO EAT PROPERLY AND WILL BE PLAGUED WITH DENTAL PROBLEMS FOR THE DURATION OF THEIR LIFE. EXTREME CARE NEEDS TO BE TAKEN WHEN CARRYING OUT THIS CHECK AS A RABBIT THAT IS NOT HAPPY OR USED TO HAVING THIS DONE CAN BITE. WE NEED TO CHECK THAT THERE IS NO EXCESSIVE DROOLING OR LOSS OF APPETITE. A VET WILL NEED TO CARRY OUT INSPECTIONS OF YOUR RABBITS TEETH EVERY 6 MONTHS AS ALTHOUGH YOU ARE ABLE TO CHECK THOSE THAT ARE VISIBLE YOU WILL BE UNABLE TO CHECK THE BACK TEETH YOURSELF. THE COMMON DENTAL PROBLEMS WHICH PLAGUE THE DOMESTIC RABBIT ARE PLAQUE FORMATION AND CAVITIES, AND OVERGROWN AND WEAK TEETH, YOU MAY THINK THAT IN ITSELF THERE IS NOTHING WRONG WITH THIS BUT THEY DO LEAD TO MORE SERIOUS COMPLAINTS IF LEFT UNTREATED AND CAUSE THE DOMESTIC RABBIT UNNECESSARY SUFFERING. THE MAJORITY OF DENTAL PROBLEMS CAN ACTUALLY BE AVOIDED WITH PROPER DIET. THE PROBLEM WITH DOMESTIC RABBIT'S IS THAT UNLIKE THEIR WILD COUSINS THEY CANNOT EAT AS NATURE INTENDED AND THEREFORE THEY DON'T GET WHAT IS NECESSARY FOR THEM TO KEEP THERE OWN TEETH IN CHECK.YOU CAN AVOID THIS BY OFFERING MORE HAY AND GREENS THAT REQUIRE CHEWING. YOUR RABBIT SHOULD BE CHEWING FOR FOUR HOURS TO KEEP THEIR TEETH IN CHECK. DO NOT EVER ATTEMPT TO CLIP OVERGROWN FRONT TEETH YOURSELF AS THE TEETH CAN SHATTER, IT CAN CAUSE PAIN AND CAN BE EXTREMELY CRUEL. YOUR VET WILL TRIM ANY EXCESS TEETH WITH A BUR AND OTHER DENTAL EQUIPMENT.
BOTTOM
HERE WE WANT TO CHECK THAT THE REAR IS FREE FROM DROPPINGS AND IS CLEAN THE MAIN REASON BEING FLYSTRIKE AS ALREADY MENTIONED ABOVE. THE REAR SHOULDN'T BE STICKY OR WET EITHER AS THIS CAN INDICATE POOR DIET OR POSSIBLY MALNUTRITION. WASH OFF ANY DROPPINGS THAT MAY BE ATTACHED TO THE FUR. LONG-HAIRED BREEDS ARE MORE AT RISK OF FLYSTRIKE AND NEED EXTREME VIGILANCE, WITH THE EXCESS FUR IT IS IMPORTANT TO KEEP THE LONG HAIR OF THE REAR FREE FROM SAWDUST AND ANY SOILING.
FEET
HERE WE WANT TO CHECK THAT THERE ARE NO INJURIES TO THE FEET AND THAT THE CLAWS ARE NOT OVERGROWN. THE CLAWS IF LEFT OVERGROWN CAN CAUSE EXTREME DISCOMFORT TO THE RABBIT AND CAN ALSO CAUSE DAMAGE IF IT SCRATCHES ITSELF. CLAWS CAN BE TRIMMED WITH GUILLOTINE TYPE CLIPPERS WHICH ARE READILY AVAILABLE IN PET SHOPS. TO DO THE TRIMMING YOURSELF REQUIRES KNOWLEDGE AND CONFIDENCE IT CAN BE TRICKY AS IT IS SOMETHING THAT FEW RABBITS ENJOY HAVING DONE ALTHOUGH MOST WILL TOLERATE IT. IF YOU ARE UNSURE WHAT YOU ARE DOING IT IS BEST TO TAKE YOUR RABBIT TO THE VETS WHO WILL TRIM THE CLAWS FOR YOU. IT IS NECESSARY TO CHECK YOUR RABBIT'S FEET AND HAVE THE CLAWS TRIMMED AS OFTEN AS REQUIRED. FROM EXPERIENCE SOME BREEDS OF RABBIT HAVE FASTER GROWING CLAWS THAN OTHERS.
FUR
HERE WE WANT TO CHECK THAT THERE ARE NO BALD PATCHES, NO SIGN OF INJURY AND THAT THE FUR IS FREE FROM MITES AND FLEAS. THE COAT SHOULD BE SHINY, DULL FUR CAN INDICATE INTERNAL PARASITES. NOT ONLY WILL ALL THESE GENERAL CHECKS KEEP YOUR RABBIT HEALTHY THEY ARE ALSO GOOD POINTERS FOR ANYBODY THAT IS VIEWING A RABBIT TO BUY, WITH THESE CHECKS YOU WON'T GO FAR WRONG AND SHOULD BE ASSURED OF A HEALTHY RABBIT COMING HOME WITH YOU.
IT IS IMPORTANT TO FULLY UNDERSTAND WHY YOU ARE REQUIRED TO DO SOMETHING RATHER THAN BEING TOLD IT NEEDS DOING.
WHEN A RABBIT COMES INTO CONTACT WITH INFECTION FOR THE FIRST TIME THE IMMUNE SYSTEM WILL WORK HARD TO TRY AND PROTECT IT FROM THE DISEASE WHICH THE INFECTION MIGHT CAUSE. THE PROBLEM HERE IS THAT THE RABBIT CAN BECOME SERIOUSLY ILL IN ITS ATTEMPT TO WARD OFF THE INFECTION.
WHEN YOU VACCINATE A RABBIT YOU ALLOW THE IMMUNE SYSTEM TO BE TAUGHT IN ADVANCE HOW TO RECOGNISE AND FIGHT AGAINST INFECTION AND DISEASE. A LIFESAVER WHEN SOME INFECTIONS CAN CAUSE INCURABLE DISEASES.
THERE ARE TWO DIFFERENT DISEASES WHICH RABBITS NEED TO BE VACCINATED AGAINST BOTH ARE FATAL TO RABBITS AND THERE IS MUCH TO BE SAID FOR PREVENTION BEING BETTER THAN A CURE.
FIRSTLY THERE IS VHD (VIRAL HAEMORRHAGIC DISEASE)
THIS IS A VIRUS DISEASE FIRST INDENTIFIED IN CHINA IN 1984 SPREADING TO EUROPE AND ARRIVING HERE IN ENGLAND BY 1992 SPREADING RAPIDLY THROUGHOUT THE COUNTRY. THIS IS THE ONLY RABBIT DISEASE THAT REQUIRES NOTIFICATION TO THE AUTHORITIES IN THE UK AND AFFECTS ONLY RABBITS. THE RABBITS MOST LIKELY TO BE AFFECTED BY VHD ARE OLDER DOES AND BUCKS AND RARELY KITS UNDER TWO MONTHS OF AGE ALTHOUGH IT CAN BE CONTRACTED BY ANY RABBIT OVER 6 WEEKS OF AGE. VHD IS HIGHLY CONTAGIOUS, IT IS SPREAD BY AIRBOURNE DROPLETS, DIRECT/ INDIRECT CONTACT AND INFECTED FOOD. THE VIRUS THAT CAUSES THIS DISEASE IS PERSISTANT AND SURVIVES IN THE ENVIRONMENT FOR A LONG TIME.BECAUSE OF THIS IT CAN BE SPREAD ON CLOTHING AND FOOTWEAR. INSECTS AND BIRDS CAN ALSO CARRY THE VIRUS MAKING THE HOUSE RABBIT ALSO AT RISK.
THE DISEASE IS PARTICULARLY UNPLEASANT SYMPTOMS BEING ANY OF THE FOLLOWING:
DEPRESSION
COLLAPSE
CONVULSIONS
LETHARGY
LOSS OF APPETITE
BREATHING DIFFICULTIES
FEVER
SPASMS
BLOODY NASAL
PROSTRATION
EYE DISCHARGE AND GROANING
AND SUDDEN DEATH
THERE IS NO CURE FOR THIS DISEASE THE ONLY WAY TO PROTECT YOUR RABBIT FROM THIS AWFUL DISEASE IS BY VACCINATING.
A RABBIT CAN BE VACCINATED WITH A SINGLE VACCINE FROM THE AGE OF 10 WEEKS WHICH WILL FURTHER PROTECT YOUR RABBIT FOR 12 MONTHS. KITS UNDER THE AGE OF 6 WEEKS ARE RESISTANT TO THE DISEASE. VHD IS NOT A SEASONAL DISEASE IT IS YEAR ROUND IT IS THEREFORE PARAMOUNT THAT ANNUAL BOOSTERS ARE ADMINISTERED TO ENSURE ADEQUATE PROTECTION THROUGHOUT ITS LIFE. IN EXTREME CIRCUMSTANCES IT MAY BE NECESSARY FOR THE INITIAL VACCINE TO CONSIST OF TWO DOSES WITH THE FIRST ADMINISTERED EARLIER THAN 6 WEEKS. YOUR LOCAL VET WILL BE ABLE TO OFFER ADVICE ON THIS.
SECONDLY THERE IS MYXOMATOSIS, PROBABLY THE BEST KNOWN RABBIT DISEASE. MYXOMATOSIS IS A VIRAL DISEASE THAT WAS INTENTIONALLY INTRODUCED IN THE PAST TO CONTROL THE WILD RABBIT POPULATIONS. IT WAS WHEN IT WAS INTRODUCED INTO FRANCE THAT IT GOT OUT OF HAND AND SPREAD LIKE WILDFIRE ATTACKING ANY RABBITS THAT WERE NOT RESISTANT. IN 1953, MYXOMATOSIS ARRIVED IN BRITAIN. IT IS SPREAD BY THE BITE OF RABBIT FLEAS. IT IS DURING THE SPRING THAT MYXOMATOSIS IS MOST RIFE AMONGST THE WILD RABBIT POPULATION AS IRONICALLY THE RABBIT FLEA ONLY BREEDS ON PREGNANT DOES. UNLIKE VHD, MYXOMATOSIS MAKES A RABBIT UNWELL FOR A PERIOD OF TIME BEFORE THEY EVENTUALLY SUCCUMB TO DEATH. THE VIRUS IS INTRODUCED TO THE RABBIT ONCE THEY HAVE BEEN BITTEN AND MULTIPLIES IN THE SKIN OF THE FACE,EARS AND ANUS CAUSING LARGE SWELLINGS. THIS MAKES SEEING, HEARING AND DRINKING DIFFICULT FOR THE RABBIT. DEATH TAKES APPROXIMATELY 12 DAYS ALTHOUGH A SMALL PERCENTAGE MAY SURVIVE. WITH EXPERT VETERINARIAN CARE SOME MAY SURVIVE BUT MANY WILL STILL DIE, ANY THAT DO SURVIVE WILL BE LEFT WITH SCARRING. SIGNS OF AN INFECTED RABBIT CAN BE ONE OR MORE OF THE FOLLOWING:
LACK OF APPETITE AND LOSS OF WEIGHT
SWELLINGS BENEATH THE SKIN OVER THE BODY
DULL COAT
SWELLINGS OF BODY OPENINGS (EYES, EARS, ANUS)
A COLD
SWELLINGS OF THE EARS, NOSE AND EYELIDS.
THE ONLY PREVENTION OF THIS DISEASE IS BY VACCINATION AND INSECT CONTROL. IT IS IMPORTANT TO VACCINATE AS EARLY AS POSSIBLE SO AS TO AVOID PUTTING YOUR RABBIT AT RISK OF DISEASE. YOU CAN VACCINATE FROM 6 WEEKS OF AGE. PROTECTION WITH THE INITIAL VACCINE IS NOT INTENDED TO LAST THE LIFETIME OF YOUR RABBIT THEREFORE BOOSTERS WILL BE ESSENTIAL TO KEEP YOUR RABBIT SAFE. BOOSTERS ARE RECOMMENDED ANNUALLY, MORE FREQUENT BOOSTERS MAY BE NECESSARY SHOULD YOU LIVE IN A HIGH RISK AREA. AGAIN YOUR LOCAL VET WILL ADVISE YOU IF THIS IS NECESSARY.
IT IS ESSENTIAL THAT YOU DO NOT THINK IT UNNECCESARY TO SAFEGUARD YOUR RABBIT BECAUSE YOU HAVE NEVER SEEN THESE DISEASES IN RABBITS FOR YOURSELF. THE REASON THAT WILD RABBITS ARE NOT OFTEN OBSERVED WITH VHD IN PARTICULAR IS DUE TO THE ILLNESS BEING A SWIFT KILLER AND THE FIRST SIGN OF INFECTION BEING DEATH.
FLY STRIKE
RABBITS ARE ALSO PRONE TO FLYSTRIKE WHICH WHEN IT OCCURS CAN BE FATAL, FLYSTRIKE AS THE NAME SUGGESTS IS CAUSED BY FLIES, CHECK YOUR RABBITS REAR EVERYDAY PARTICULARLY IN THE LONG HAIRED BREEDS AS FLIES ARE ATTRACTED TO ANY DROPPINGS STUCK AROUND THE BOTTOM. WOUNDS AROUND THE BOTTOM CAN ALSO ATTRACT FLIES AND DIARRHOEA CAN BE A PRECURSOR FOR FLYSTRIKE. THE PREVENTION FOR FLY STRIKE IS GOOD HUSBANDRY. THEIR HUTCHES NEED TO BE KEPT CLEAN AND FREE FROM TOILET WASTE. IT MUST BE REMEMBERED THAT A RABBIT CANNOT KEEP AWAY FROM THEIR TOILET AREA AND WILL HAVE MORE THAN ONE PLACE THEY USE AS THEIR TOILET. URINE AND FAECES ATTRACT FLIES, THESE THEN LAY THERE EGGS AROUND THE ANUS AND THE POOR RABBIT IS EATEN ALIVE BY THE MAGGOTS THAT HATCH AND BURROW INTO THE SKIN. SUCH A PITIFUL END THAT IS SO FAR FROM NECESSARY AND SO EASILY PREVENTED. YOU NEED TO SPOT CLEAN THE HUTCH EACH DAY REMOVING ANY SOILED MATERIAL AND REPLACING WITH FRESH CLEAN BEDDING, ONCE A WEEK THE WHOLE HUTCH NEEDS TO BE CLEANED OUT AND ONCE A MONTH WHILE YOUR RABBIT IS ENJOYING THEIR TIME IN THE RUN THE HUTCH NEEDS TO BE COMPLETELY EMPTIED AND THOROUGHLY CLEANED WITH A SUITABLE CLEANER DESIGNED FOR THE PURPOSE MAKING SURE THAT IT IS THOROUGHLY RINSED AND IS COMPLETELY DRY BEFORE REPLACING BEDDING AND RABBIT. YOU CAN ALSO PURCHASE A SUITABLE PREVENTATIVE FROM YOUR VETS WHICH IS APPLIED AS INSTRUCTED AROUND THE REAR OF THE RABBIT AND REPELS ANY FLIES BUT TO BE COMPLETELY HONEST THIS WILL BE INEFFECTIVE WITHOUT THE PRACTICE OF GOOD HYGIENE. ASK YOUR VET ABOUT REARGUARD OR ANY EQUIVALENT THAT THEY MAY ADVISE USE OF. THE RABBITS MOST AT RISK ARE THOSE THAT ARE OBESE, SUFFER FROM DENTAL DISEASE, DIARRHOEA, AND ARTHRITIS, THOSE WITH SKIN WOUNDS AND THOSE LIVING IN DIRTY HUTCHES.
ENCEPHALITOZOON CUNICULI (E-CUNICULI)
ENCEPHALITOZOON CUNICULI IS A MICROSCOPIC PARASITE THAT AFFECTS MANY OF THE INTERNAL ORGANS LIKE THE BRAIN AND KIDNEYS. AS THESE PARASITES ARE INTERNAL THE SYMPTOMS ARE THOSE ASSOCIATED WITH THE PARTICULAR ORGAN THAT IS BEING ATTACKED.
I.E THE KIDNEY UNDER ATTACK WOULD MANIFEST AS AN INCREASING THIRST AND WEIGHT LOSS AND THE BRAIN UNDER ATTACK WOULD MANIFEST AS CONVULSIONS, TREMORS. WEAKNESS OF THE HIND LIMBS, A LOSS OF BALANCE, OR EVEN A COMA. IT COULD ALSO BE THE NERVOUS SYSTEM UNDER ATTACK AND COULD MANIFEST AS URINARY INCONTINENCE. A SUFFERING RABBIT CAN HAVE ANY OF THE FOLLOWING EFFECTS: LOSS OF VISION, LOSS OF BALANCE, HIND LIMB WEAKNESS, SEIZURES AND KIDNEY DISEASE. A TREATMENT FOR ENCEPHALITOZOON CUNICULI IS AVAILABLE FROM YOUR VET THIS IS USUALLY A 28 DAY COURSE OF PANACUR, AGAIN GOOD HUSBANDRY IS ESSENTIAL TO BRING THE INFECTION UNDER CONTROL. E CUNICULI IS MOST COMMONLY FOUND AS 'HEAD TILT' ALTHOUGH THIS DOES NOT IN ANY MEAN THAT IT IS NOT SEEN IN ANY OF THE FORMS MENTIONED ABOVE.
WHAT ELSE IS REQUIRED TO ENSURE YOUR RABBIT IS KEPT IN OPTIMAL HEALTH?
SIMPLE HEALTH CHECKS CARRIED OUT BY YOURSELF EACH WEEK IS BENEFICIAL FOR BOTH YOURSELF AND YOUR RABBIT. FOR YOUR RABBIT IT WILL HELP TO MAINTAIN GOOD HEALTH AND GIVE A CLEAR EARLY INDICATION OF ANY HEALTH PROBLEMS THAT NEED ADDRESSING SO THAT THIS CAN BE CARRIED OUT EARLY. FOR YOURSELF THE REGULAR HANDLING WILL PROVIDE THE PERFECT OPPORTUNITY FOR BONDING BETWEEN YOU AND YOUR RABBIT. THE MORE FAMILIAR YOU ARE WITH YOUR RABBIT AND THE MORE WILLING YOUR RABBIT IS TO COMPLY WITH THIS ROUTINE CHECKING THE EARLIER DETECTION OF PROBLEMS WILL OCCUR.. WHEN CARRYING OUT YOUR ROUTINE HEALTH CHECKS ONLY PROCEED ONCE YOUR RABBIT IS COMFORTABLE, RELAXED AND WILLING TO TOLERATE THE CHECKS. THIS SHOULD BE AN EXPERIENCE THAT IS ENJOYABLE FOR YOUR RABBIT AS IT IS AN ESSENTIAL PART OF THEIR UPKEEP AND MUST BE DONE REGULARLY.
SO WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING FOR IN YOUR ROUTINE HEALTH CHECKS?
WE ARE CHECKING THE EARS, EYES, TEETH, BOTTOM, FEET AND FUR. ALL OF THESE AREAS CAN GIVE INDICATION OF HEALTH PROBLEMS WHICH NEED ADDRESSING.
EARS
HERE WE ARE LOOKING FOR ANY SCABS, SCALING OR INFLAMMATION WHICH CAN INDICATE THE PRESENCE OF EAR MITES, WHICH IN TURN CAN LEAD TO EAR MANGE. AS RABBITS HAVE SUCH LARGE EARS IT IS A GOOD ASSUMPTION THAT THE MOST COMMON AILMENTS ARE GOING TO AFFECT THEM. EAR MANGE RARELY PROVES SERIOUS, IT IS SOMETHING THAT CAN BE EASILY TREATED AND IS EVEN EASIER TO PREVENT. THE MITES DON'T SUCK THE RABBITS BLOOD THEY PIERCE AND CHEW THE SOFT OUTER EAR LINING THUS CAUSING THE INFLAMMATION AND SCABBING OR SCALING WHICH WE ARE LOOKING FOR IN OUR CHECKS.THERE MAY ALSO BE THE PRESENCE OF DISCOLOURATION SOMETIMES WHITE, SOMETIMES BROWN. THIS IS MADE UP OF DEAD MITES, THEIR DROPPINGS AND DEAD SKIN CELL HELD TOGETHER WITH THE SERUM THAT OOZES FROM THE DAMAGED EAR. VET TREATMENT WILL CONSIST OF THE VET GENTLY CLEANING THE AFFECTED EAR AND TREATING WITH ANTI PARASITIC DROPS OR CREAMS. AS A PREVENTION YOU SHOULD KEEP YOUR RABBIT'S EAR'S IN TIPTOP CONDITION BY CLEANING THE INSIDE SURFACES ONCE A MONTH WITH COTTON WOOL BALLS MOISTENED WITH WARM OLIVE OIL. TO RECAP YOU ARE CHECKING THAT THE EARS ARE FREE FROM MITES AND FLEAS AS THESE CARRY DISEASES.
EYES
HERE WE WANT TO SEE EYES THAT ARE CLEAR, SHINY, FREE FROM DISCHARGE AND THAT THEY ARE NOT SWOLLEN. DULL, DAMP OR SWOLLEN EYES CAN INDICATE ILLNESS WHICH CAN LEAD TO BLINDNESS. COMMON EYE COMPLAINTS ARE WHEN THE EYES ARE RUNNY, WITH PERHAPS A YELLOWY CREAMY OR WHITE DISCHARGE AND PERHAPS BLOODSHOT EYES. THE CAUSE COULD BE DUE TO INJURY, FLY-BORNE INFECTION OR COULD INDICATE THE PRESENCE OF SNUFFLES. AS A FIRST COURSE OF ACTION YOU CAN ATTEMPT TO TREAT YOURSELF, BY WASHING THE EYE(S) WITH EITHER WARM SALINE OR HUMAN EYE WASH AND WIPING AWAY ANY CRUSTING THAT MAY BE PRESENT. IF THE PROBLEM IS STILL PERSISTING AFTER 48 HOURS SEEK THE ADVICE OF A VET AS SULPHA EYE PREPERATION OR ANTIBIOTICS MAY BE REQUIRED.
TEETH
WHEN A RABBIT IS BORN THE BREEDER SHOULD CHECK THE ALIGNMENT OF THE TEETH AROUND THE TIME OF SEXING. WHAT YOU WANT TO SEE IS THAT THE TOP TEETH ARE IN FRONT OF THE BOTTOM TEETH. ANY RABBIT THAT DOES NOT HAVE THE CORRECT ALIGNMENT WILL BE UNABLE TO EAT PROPERLY AND WILL BE PLAGUED WITH DENTAL PROBLEMS FOR THE DURATION OF THEIR LIFE. EXTREME CARE NEEDS TO BE TAKEN WHEN CARRYING OUT THIS CHECK AS A RABBIT THAT IS NOT HAPPY OR USED TO HAVING THIS DONE CAN BITE. WE NEED TO CHECK THAT THERE IS NO EXCESSIVE DROOLING OR LOSS OF APPETITE. A VET WILL NEED TO CARRY OUT INSPECTIONS OF YOUR RABBITS TEETH EVERY 6 MONTHS AS ALTHOUGH YOU ARE ABLE TO CHECK THOSE THAT ARE VISIBLE YOU WILL BE UNABLE TO CHECK THE BACK TEETH YOURSELF. THE COMMON DENTAL PROBLEMS WHICH PLAGUE THE DOMESTIC RABBIT ARE PLAQUE FORMATION AND CAVITIES, AND OVERGROWN AND WEAK TEETH, YOU MAY THINK THAT IN ITSELF THERE IS NOTHING WRONG WITH THIS BUT THEY DO LEAD TO MORE SERIOUS COMPLAINTS IF LEFT UNTREATED AND CAUSE THE DOMESTIC RABBIT UNNECESSARY SUFFERING. THE MAJORITY OF DENTAL PROBLEMS CAN ACTUALLY BE AVOIDED WITH PROPER DIET. THE PROBLEM WITH DOMESTIC RABBIT'S IS THAT UNLIKE THEIR WILD COUSINS THEY CANNOT EAT AS NATURE INTENDED AND THEREFORE THEY DON'T GET WHAT IS NECESSARY FOR THEM TO KEEP THERE OWN TEETH IN CHECK.YOU CAN AVOID THIS BY OFFERING MORE HAY AND GREENS THAT REQUIRE CHEWING. YOUR RABBIT SHOULD BE CHEWING FOR FOUR HOURS TO KEEP THEIR TEETH IN CHECK. DO NOT EVER ATTEMPT TO CLIP OVERGROWN FRONT TEETH YOURSELF AS THE TEETH CAN SHATTER, IT CAN CAUSE PAIN AND CAN BE EXTREMELY CRUEL. YOUR VET WILL TRIM ANY EXCESS TEETH WITH A BUR AND OTHER DENTAL EQUIPMENT.
BOTTOM
HERE WE WANT TO CHECK THAT THE REAR IS FREE FROM DROPPINGS AND IS CLEAN THE MAIN REASON BEING FLYSTRIKE AS ALREADY MENTIONED ABOVE. THE REAR SHOULDN'T BE STICKY OR WET EITHER AS THIS CAN INDICATE POOR DIET OR POSSIBLY MALNUTRITION. WASH OFF ANY DROPPINGS THAT MAY BE ATTACHED TO THE FUR. LONG-HAIRED BREEDS ARE MORE AT RISK OF FLYSTRIKE AND NEED EXTREME VIGILANCE, WITH THE EXCESS FUR IT IS IMPORTANT TO KEEP THE LONG HAIR OF THE REAR FREE FROM SAWDUST AND ANY SOILING.
FEET
HERE WE WANT TO CHECK THAT THERE ARE NO INJURIES TO THE FEET AND THAT THE CLAWS ARE NOT OVERGROWN. THE CLAWS IF LEFT OVERGROWN CAN CAUSE EXTREME DISCOMFORT TO THE RABBIT AND CAN ALSO CAUSE DAMAGE IF IT SCRATCHES ITSELF. CLAWS CAN BE TRIMMED WITH GUILLOTINE TYPE CLIPPERS WHICH ARE READILY AVAILABLE IN PET SHOPS. TO DO THE TRIMMING YOURSELF REQUIRES KNOWLEDGE AND CONFIDENCE IT CAN BE TRICKY AS IT IS SOMETHING THAT FEW RABBITS ENJOY HAVING DONE ALTHOUGH MOST WILL TOLERATE IT. IF YOU ARE UNSURE WHAT YOU ARE DOING IT IS BEST TO TAKE YOUR RABBIT TO THE VETS WHO WILL TRIM THE CLAWS FOR YOU. IT IS NECESSARY TO CHECK YOUR RABBIT'S FEET AND HAVE THE CLAWS TRIMMED AS OFTEN AS REQUIRED. FROM EXPERIENCE SOME BREEDS OF RABBIT HAVE FASTER GROWING CLAWS THAN OTHERS.
FUR
HERE WE WANT TO CHECK THAT THERE ARE NO BALD PATCHES, NO SIGN OF INJURY AND THAT THE FUR IS FREE FROM MITES AND FLEAS. THE COAT SHOULD BE SHINY, DULL FUR CAN INDICATE INTERNAL PARASITES. NOT ONLY WILL ALL THESE GENERAL CHECKS KEEP YOUR RABBIT HEALTHY THEY ARE ALSO GOOD POINTERS FOR ANYBODY THAT IS VIEWING A RABBIT TO BUY, WITH THESE CHECKS YOU WON'T GO FAR WRONG AND SHOULD BE ASSURED OF A HEALTHY RABBIT COMING HOME WITH YOU.